Chapter 10: A non-touristic place for tourists

When guitar player Luís Guerreiro and Fado singer & producer Rodrigo Costa Félix found out that they both had the same dream, they worked together on fulfilling it. After the pandemic they started their first Fado restaurant “Fado ao Carmo”, located in Chiado. After singing himself at established Fado houses like Club de fado for over 20 years, Rodrigo has already learned a lot about the life in Fado houses before he opened his own. 

“I knew what I want to do and what I don’t want to do”

They had started some new ideas such as offering a fixed menu, instead of creating a separate “tourist menu” as restaurants used to do it before. Having been aware and proud of the success their restaurant had, they soon decided to open a second venue with the same name. They found a beautiful place for it, located in Travessa do Almargem in Alfama.

Rodrigo seems to be a real perfectionist, which doesn’t make it easier for himself to manage a restaurant. “Most guests are tourists, but we don’t want to make them feel that they are in a touristic place”. Thus, being attentive towards the guest in every little detail is one of the main principles in his restaurant. At the beginning of the evening the waiters would explain to each table how the restaurant works: food is served in between the sets, there is no service during the fado presentation, and taking photos and videos of the musicians is allowed, but without flash.

A late night at Fado ao Carmo

I arrive at the restaurant in Alfama shortly after 10pm. It’s the time when the first guests finish dinner, and tables get available for the late birds like me, who want to listen to good fado accompanied with a glass of white wine. Musicians are having a break right now, desserts are being served.

I have some minutes until the next set starts. I have a taste of my white wine will be the perfect companion for listening to excellent guitar and voice interplays. There two red chairs placed on a little plateau in the middle of the room. Slowly, when the lights are dimmed, the musicians come from outside and walk towards them. The guitar players sit down and the singer, Ana Margarida Prado, stands between them. The guitars are tuned, last dishes are served before the show starts. Silence. Cutlery is clinking on the plates. Guitar strings are gently plucked. Some whispers, some laughs until the singer decides on the song. Her voice is more voluminous and powerful than I could have imagined. 

As with the applause, a loud “beautiful“ echoes from the audience towards the musicians. Before the next Fado is sung, absolute silence enters the room and stays with us for around half a minute. I notice that silence in a big venue like this is a bigger silence than the silence in a small room. It’s so powerful, because it is silence itself that keeps people truly silent. Someone on the other side of the restaurant puts his wine glass back on the table. I can’t see but hear it. She chooses a song, the melody starts on the Portuguese guitar. She now uses the performance space and draws circles singing and expressing herself. 

Tourists come here from around the world

The set is finished, and I realize that the singer didn’t talk at all, but maybe she did that in the opening set. Rodrigo switches the lights back on, opens the shutters at the entry door and starts again the background playback music. The main part of the fado night seems to have come to an end. The last guests finish their desserts, ask for the bill, leave the restaurant.

After the Fado set Rodrigo comes again to sit next to me. While we talk, he cannot take his eyes from the entrance area. And it seems to hurt his eyes when no one opens the door for the guests on their way out. He tells me that those acts of service – opening the door, saying goodbye and thanking them – are the most important way to show appreciation for the guests’ visit. 

Do you feel that guests are sometimes distracted by the food?
“Yes, sometimes that happens. Some also stop eating during the Fado presentation and continue in the break. The problem is then that the food may get cold.”

Do you choose the singers every night?
“Yes, we choose all the singers. Very wisely. We usually have two musicians and two singers, one woman. one man. We try to keep the cast young, as we also want to attract a young audience.

What happens if guests don’t follow the restaurant rules?
“We go again to them, explain them. It’s all a matter of respect.”

Rodrigo Costa Félix

I lose Rodrigo from my conversation when he gets up impatiently to open the door for an American couple. For the next and final set of the night, Rodrigo himself will be the singer. Ana Margarida Prado is now having dinner on a table close to the musicians. After diving into the Rodrigos calming way of singing, the most beautiful surprise enlightens the room. Ana stands up from her table and her voice joins Rodrigo’s on the song Hortelã Mourisca. Together they create beautiful harmonies from one to the other side of the room. This moment will be held in my memories forever.